This is a really helpful little trick for calming down your Venetian Plaster finishes, especially the more saturated colors. Pay careful attention, though, about not overtinting your wax, be conservative and always test a small area first to be sure. You have to wait until it dries back to really know what you're going to get.
We'll post more short subject tips in the future so stay tuned.
Alberto, from 3M tools in Italy, our Venetian Plaster tool supplier, just sent me this photo of their new tool belt. Looks pretty cool - I'm going to bring some in on our next container. What do you think?
All kinds of stainless steel Italian Plaster tools at reasonable prices available on our Stucco Italiano website here.
Posted recently on the Faux Forum discussion site:
Interesting discussion about installing Tadelakt in showers here:
If you're not familiar with Tadelakt, it's a wonderful material. A traditional Moroccan wall finish, originating in the Marrakesh Region, is is found in the Hammams, the Moroccan steam bath, and in the riads of Marrakesh.
Here is some advice on how to easily apply Stucco Italiano's Tadelakt. We have included some notes to compare this modern application method with the antique or traditional Moroccan method. It should be noted, however, that more and more in Morocco, installers are using more modern application methods to give a more refined effect compared to those obtained with the rougher, more rustic methods which use less sophisticated tools and less refined products.
Tadelakt - How to apply
The preparation of the substrate is similar to that used with Stucco Italiano Marmorino Carrara. The ideal substrate is new plaster composed of lime, a little cement and sand. It can also be applied over old substrates as long as there is no crumbling and it has been treated with a primer.
Mix a 20 kg. container material with about 6.5 – 7 kg of water. Once the material is well-mixed, it can be colored and then left to rest for about a half an hour. It can then be applied, either that day or the next. (The material will still be good for several days if it is kept in a sealed container away from heat. However, it’s best to apply it within 2 or 3 days.)
After the substrate has been prepared, the first coat, tinted or not (white), is applied with a metal trowel. (With the traditional Moroccan method, it is applied with a tool similar to a Swiss trowel which leaves a slightly wavy surface.) Let the first coat dry completely (overnight). Remember that part of the pattern that is left in the first coat will be visible in the finished work.
Before beginning the second coat, we advise, as we do in the instructions for Marmorino Carrara, to replace all the protective tape. For the second coat, apply the material with the color of your preference with a large, metal trowel. As with Marmorino Carrara, it should be applied over the entire surface smoothing out any marks left by the trowel, keeping in mind that any marks left at this stage with remain visible in the final surface. (For those wishing for a completely smooth surface, pass over the entire surface with a with a sponge float.) Let it dry a little until it loses its shine, which is due to an excess of water. In some places you will see a slight lightening of the color. At this point you can apply the third coat using the same material and the same big trowel, or a smaller one if you chose.
The important thing is to use a trowel with sharp edges. Apply a thin layer, pressing (unifying) the second and the third coat into one thickness. You will have to pass over the surface numerous times, always moving the trowel in different directions until you achieved the desired finish. If you see bubbles appear during this stage, you’ll need to wait a little more before the final burnishing stage.
It may be advantageous at the final stage of polishing to use a plastic trowel, especially with lighter colors, to avoid burning the surface. At this point in traditional Moroccan applications, the burnishing is done with a polished stone that, given its round shape, allows the artisan to follow the wavy surface which has been created in the preceding coats with the Swiss-type trowel.
When the Tadelakt is completely dry, usually after one or more days, it can be protected with a special Moroccan soap (the same one which is still used in the public, Moroccan baths) which is made from olive oil. The soap is spread as is, or diluted up to 100%, with as much water as desired. Since this soap is very dark, we advise that it be well-diluted when applied on light colors in order to avoid unwanted discolorations. Normally it should be applied with a metal trowel, rubbing it on the surface until it is completely absorbed. Any excess soap can be removed using a cloth after about 10 minutes.
Today we'll be filming some short (3-5 minute) videos on basic things like proper trowel angle, burnishing, waxing, etc. Should have them finished up be end of next week and we'll post to our sites and here as well, so check back.
Here's a handy link to a document all about drywall finishing levels for those of you still perplexed by what we're talking about when we specify a "level five finish", for example...
Mary from Massachussets wrote us the following about Stucco Italiano:
"This is a wonderful product. Used it in my dining room and it looks superb.
Any recommendations on tinting the plaster? I used ochres and oxides for a custom color but working in the color was quite a challenge."
Easiest way to break down powdered pigments prior to mixing into a plaster material is to put a small amount of denatured alcohol with your pigment. This will act as a surfactant and make it much easier to incorporate the powdered pigments into your plaster.
Anyone have any other technical questions, just email me.
Aaron
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